Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery

METRO
August 14, 2008

EXHIBITION REVIEW
Now & Then

Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery's current exhibition, which explores the differences and similarities between antique and contemporary jewellery, is split into four sections: Sentiment & Sex; Memento Mori; Power & Politics and The Lighter Side. These sections are designed to explore how we use
accessories to commemorate special
events and how jewellery-makers' methods, materials and motives have
changed during the past 300 years.
The Memento Mori section is the most
consistent group in terms of quality and message, and features some gorgeous pieces of Victoriana, including a ring made from amethyst, chrysolite and human hair. This piece, a portable shrine to a lost loved one, is much more powerful than its contemporary counterparts, even Claudia Stebler's brilliant tongue-in-cheek ceramic and pearl brooch Bury Your X.
The jokey nature of Stebler's piece, along with Found Objects, Susan Osbom's clever comment on the search for weapons of mass destruction, is the inherent problem with the more recent works in the show. It feels like the contemporary jewellers featured in Now & Then
are scared of creating an obviously poignant piece, choosing to hide any true emotion behind a pithy title or gag. Unfortunately, a joke only serves to make the pieces, including Emperor Penguin Freddie with Polar Bear Claw Necklace (pictured), by Felieke Van Der Leest,'seem throwaway.
It's hard to imagine that in 300 years' time they'll be looked at with the same fondness as their antique counterparts.
Marie-Claire Daly

Until Sep 28, Kath Libbert Jewellery Gallery, Salts Mill, Saltaire, Bradford, Mon to Fri 10am to 5.30pm,
Sat and Sun Wam to 6pm, free.
Tel: 01274 599790. www.kathlibbertjeweliery.co.uk