FINDINGS
The Association for Contemporary Jewellery's
quarterly newsletter
October 2002
DISTINTO-DISTINCT
Kath
Libbert Jewellery, Bradford
4 July - 1 September 2002
The exhibition at Saltaire this summer was only half the story.
The catalogue tells how the project began and opens with wonderful
parallel illustrations of Hipotesi in Barcelona and Salts Mill in
Bradford, two imposing buildings holding within them two distinctive
jewellery galleries.
Both Kath Libbert and Maria Lluisa Samaranch, director of Hipotesi,
chose 6 designers each, the idea being to exhibit the British jewellery
in Barcelona and the Catalan work in Bradford simultaneously for
approximately two months. The resulting exhibitions have been both
inspiring and fascinating. Thanks to a grant from the British Crafts
Council all the British designers were able to attend the opening
of their work in Barcelona on 13 June. I was delighted to take up
Kath's offer of joining them and to help out as interpreter. Hipotesi
is an exceptional gallery led by Maria Lluisa Samaranch, who says
"I do what I want here." The British work was given excellent exposure
and offered some challenging ideas for the Catalan public to consider.
I was drawn by the contrast in materials of Jo McAllister's pendant
boxes of pure silver and 22ct. gold made by hammering using stones
and hung on plain string. Equally intriguing was the use of precious
metal clay in Christina Hirst's work, fired in a kiln to produce
impossibly organic shapes in solid silver.
The British designers also had a wonderful opportunity of giving
a presentation of their work at the Escola Massana. Hosted by the
Head of Department and renowned jeweller Ramon Puig Cuyas, the event
turned out to be a resounding success and an invaluable highlight,
illustrating perfectly the cross-fertilization that Kath Libbert
talks of in her catalogue. Dot Sim immersed us in atmospheric images
of her Scottish environment to explain her minimalist style while
Kathryn Marchbank spoke of music and rhythm at once giving life
and reason to her vibrant pieces. Metal clay was handed around.
The room, filled to capacity by the Spanish team of lecturers, designers
and students and the British group, became a forum of information
and excited points of view, exchanging ideas, comparing of institutions,
philosophies.
Back in England on 4 July Kath Libbert opened her side of the exchange:
six Catalan jewellers. The work from Barcelona tells many stories,
conveys a more domestic background and engages you in a very different,
colourful, eclectic world. Grego Garcia, using a real seahorse,
photographs and mother-of-pearl, presents her pieces intimately
in wooden boxes still bearing the sealing wax from their former
days as postal containers. There was beautifully repousseed work
from Carmen Amador, also a lecturer at the Escola Massana, whose
delicate pieces were reminiscent of monocyles and circus paraphernalia.
Bogota-born Milena Trujillo says "I need to see lots of people in
the street at all times" and invites the viewer into open silver
wire cages, inhabited by colourful little figures. By contrast the
jewellery of Silvia Piva felt rich and deeply precious. She uses
18ct. gold to encase roses and generous bunches of oxydised silver
wires for fabulously large pieces as well as the smaller containers
she calls 'ofrendas' (offerings).
Funding from Yorkshire Arts enabled Silvia and Xavier Ines Monclus
to come over to Bradford for the opening, run master-classes for
ten local designer jewellers and offer presentations of their work.
Surreal, with a sense of humour and inspired by the playful world
of childhood, Xavier verges on the edge of being a toy designer.
With cheeses on wheels and cats sitting on television sets, his
work demands more than just an idle glance. The pieces are immaculately
finished and made to last, as those of us who attended his workshop
found out. I learned not to be fooled by the fun appearance of these
strange inventions. Behind each piece lies much thought and dedication
and a personality of great integrity that I was fascinated to meet.
This highly successful exchange exhibition ended on 1 September.
For those who couldn't make it to Barcelona, highlights of the British
jewellery will be shown at Salts Mill through October. For details,
call T: 01274 599790
Sarah O'Hana
